From the bygone days of beef

I came across this on youtube and I was transfixed. I was going to ramble on about it, but its very late and I am very tired. Listen instead, to the soothing voice of the narrator as he walks you through the wonderful world of beef.  The butcher is impeccably groomed and sports a very sharp knife and a hook to compliment the epic part is his hair.

Is there anything that meets with more popular flavor then  rich beef gravy on fluffy mash potatoes?

Marben Restaurant – Once Again

Having become a regular at this establishment I felt the need to write a little update on the progress that this restaurant is making. Being open for just three months, the word about the wonderful food at Marben (in Toronto on Wellington St. West) has spread like the plague. Their business has boomed and to be honest, it appears as though nothing but the energy of the staff is being compromised with this increase in reservations.

The food is definitely the highlight of any Marben experience. With outstanding combinations of flavours and textures, each plate is a perfect showcase of the chef’s imagination and culinary expertise. The burger, filled with heavenly braised ribs and topped with Branston pickle is still one of my favourite dishes and definitely their best seller. If you’re in the mood for charcuterie, the sharing platter will satisfy any craving while taking your taste buds on a roller coaster ride. The only complaint I may have is about the tortellini. It is no longer on the menu and I am quite tempted to petition for it’s return.

If you’re heading to Marben for dinner on the weekends, I do recommend getting there early in the evening as it is definitely not a place for a late night snack. Since the patio weather is slowly disappearing and Marben has a very affluent dance crowd, the place is transformed after 11pm. Food is no longer the priority or the highlight of the night and the bar gets crowded with a very fashionable crowd. The resident DJ mixes amazing music in a very bad way but with the copious amount of alcohol consumed, nobody seems to notice. It’s a great vibe if you’re looking to party but beware of getting caught in it while enjoying your dinner.

Etobicoke Farmers Market

It’s definitely the time of the season when all fruits and vegetables are flourishing and most certainly the best time to visit a farmers market. Not necessarily for the prices but for the quality and freshness of the ingredients available there. My family and I have been avid consumers of the Etobicoke Farmers Market (located in the Etobicoke City Hall parking lot at Burnhamthorpe and West Mall) every Saturday for the past few years. From it’s beginning in early June until the very last few “warm” weekends around Thanksgiving, Ontario farmers line up their produce and are more than happy to share their stories with you. It’s only open on Saturdays between approximately 8am and 2pm but I do recommend you getting there early in order to have first dibs. (I do believe that on Sundays the whole market moves to the Square One parking lot in Mississauga but I cannot guarantee that the same products will be available)

Right now at the market sweet Ontario plums and pears are making an appearance. Also, phenomenal peppers and new potatoes are also available. One word of a warning, if you want a true experience, avoid buying from the “Foodland Ontario” tables (you’ll also notice the brand on their t-shirts) since it’s generally mass produced and the same products you’ll find at your local Loblaws but for a little more in price. Also, at one end of the market you have a poultry mobile (fresh eggs, chickens, ducks, quails, etc) a smoked meat shop (sausages, etc) and a local honey producer. Finally, if you’re not in the mood to make breakfast at home before heading out here, try the fresh apple fritters (served with local maple syrup) which are definitely a treat worth going to the market for.

PS: For those getting ready for the pickling season, they have a bushel of small pickles (perfect size) for $25!

Book Review: Molecular Gastronomy- Exploring the Science of Flavor by Herve This

“It is not enough to know the principles, one needs to know how to manipulate.” – Michael Faraday

This is the man, the founder of Molecular Gastronomy. Along with fellow colleagues, he defined the science behind cooking. His prose is simple and unabashed. On topics like making stock, to tenderness and juiciness, to how salt affects taste and algal fibers.

He answers with the aid of an Ph.D in physics what so many chefs, cooks, epicureans, foodies, and gourmands have sought to answer themselves, without that physics background.

A must for anyone with unanswered questions…

Book Review: The Soul Of A Chef – The Journey Toward Perfection by Michael Ruhlman

This book is Michael Ruhlman’s second in-depth book into the world of the Culinary Institute of America (CIA). His first book being The Making of a Chef: Mastering Heat at the Culinary Institute of America.

The Soul Of A Chef takes a look at the grueling Certified Master Chef exam at the CIA, the most influential cooking school in America. Ruhlman is given a free pass to enter and watch as seasoned chefs from across the country put themselves through this culinary gauntlet. Of which only a slim, almost nonexistent, few have the privileged of gaining the title of Master Chef.

Ruhlman also has a couple chapters on a new friend, Michael Symon. An up and coming chef from Cleveland. And the Legen…wait for it…dary Thomas Keller, a man who needs no introduction to anyone in the industry. Michael also meets and befriends a chef taking the CMC exam, Brian Polcyn. Who by the way, I found myself cheering for him to pass the exam. But does he? You’ll have to read it and find out.

I have enjoyed all the books by Michael Ruhlman and this one is no different. I found inspiration and passion reading this book. I only hope you do too.

Lee Restaurant in Toronto

Anyone who has tuned into the Food Network at least once in the past decade knows who Susur Lee is and what he’s capable of producing. He’s definitely among the great chefs of this city that have managed to put Toronto’s culinary abilities on the North American map. His restaurant is located on King St West (east of Bathurst) and seems to be attracting quite a lot of buzz and it’s definitely well deserved. It was an extraordinary dinner and the chef was humble enough to even make his rounds to all the tables during the dinner service to greet his guests.

So let’s talk decor. Obviously, just like in his food, Asian influences are really hard to avoid when creating something alongside Susur Lee. Simple, minimalistic and sleek are definitely words I’d use to describe the dining room, however, it didn’t feel bare at all. Lush red panels cover the walls; wood tables, chairs and counters all make for a very cozy experience. Also, the staff is exceptional in providing outstanding service. From the greeters to the bus boys, everyone knows all the intricate details of the menu and could definitely help with your selection which makes for a very interactive meal. Our waiter was also very keen in recommending pairings between food items and the drinks list, without upselling, which is something that you barely encounter in the city.

The food was definitely the highlight of the night (or equally as exciting as meeting Chef Lee). The menu is created for sharing plates and they do recommend around 2 or  3 different items per person. I do have to warn you though, it’s definitely not cheap but worth the money (apps are between 10-20 and mains between 20-30). I recommend the Singapore style slaw (a 2 person salad) which combines fresh and exotic flavours with deep fried taro root noodles, chilies, peppers, cilantro, cabbage, pine nuts and a ton of other ingredients I’m forgetting. My favourite main that night had to be the Slow Braised Beef served with sour cream, potato leek puree and crispy shallots. The meat was so tender and so flavourful that I wouldn’t complain if I had to eat it at every meal for the rest of my life. Be aware that these are just suggestions from what I had the chance to enjoy that night, but the menu is very seasonal and it can change on a whim.

Overall, this was probably among the top dining experiences I’ve had in  Toronto. The food was excellent, the service was great and I got to meet a celebrity 😉

Book Review: The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating by Fergus Henderson

Foodie Classic. Ahead of its time. Many imitators, few successes. For true culinary epicureans Fergus Henderson is the standard for “total utilization.” He was doing offal when it was taboo, while others were gaining stardom and Michelin Stars serving truffles, foie gras, and fillet mignon. Henderson would not give way to trends and fads, staying true to his vision of a craftsmanship by elevating “alternate cuts” of meat on his menu. I’ll finish this post by quoting well known chefs who would be humbled in his presence.

“If I’m ever sentenced to death, I want Fergus Henderson to cook my last meal. The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating is a cult classic from my favorite chef and favorite restaurant in the world.” – Anthony Bourdain

“My father was very adept at making charcuterie, but Mr. Henderson puts even my father’s ability to use as many parts of the animal as possible to shame with his appetizing recipes using delicious food combinations. His text and recipe explanations- for so much more than offal- are wonderful and, in many cases, very funny. You feel that Mr. Henderson is right there in the kitchen with you-an old friend, discussing his dishes and lending you a hand.” – Daniel Boulud

Kitchen Technology: Baker’s Tweet

For all you bakers out there:

What do you think of this kitchen gadget – does it look useful or useless?

BakerTweet from POKE on Vimeo.

Aspiring bakers would like to know….

More From the BakerTweet website:

What is it?

BakerTweet is a way for busy bakers to tell the world that something hot and fresh has just come out of the oven. It’s as simple as turning the dial and hitting the button. All of the baker’s followers get a Twitter alert to tell them that it’s bun-time. Or bread time. Or whatever.\

BakerTweet allows businesses to use Twitter to communicate in real-time about offers, pricing and stock from a device that can withstand kitchen peril and is much simpler to operate than a laptop or a mobile.

First Timer

Lemon Tart you stole my title, Great Beginnings, even though you thought of it first and I hadn’t even experienced a moment that needed that title. Nonetheless a title theft. All kidding aside great post, well titled (said with a hint of jealousy).

For about a month now I have been on the search for a local butchers’ establishment that I could get similar with and ask questions questions that have been plaguing me, more recently since I have been reading The River Cottage Meat Book by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. H.F.W to his friends but I am not one of those so I’ll have to make do writing his name out in full…sigh. Questions like, what are the Canadian rules for hanging meats? What’s the feed used for extensively raised beef? At what age do you take your beef to the abattoir for slaughter? Just to name a few, of a countless many more.

I opted not to do internet research and actually go and talk to a few people. Turns out my feeling was right and its much more rewarding and genuinely better to get information from people in the know. Who’d have thought?  So, I headed over to Brantwoods Farm, a local buy-direct from-the-farmer establishments. Which I must say is an experience of itself, I’d recommend anyone to look it up if your in the neighborhood. It has a long standing reputation for great produce from its farm behind the store.

The 20 something girl behind the counter knew the produce like the back of her hand, impressive to say the least. She was more than happy and willing to point me in the right direction, immediately telling me that the beef they get directly from a farm no more than 20 km away in a town called St. George. She wrote down the name, number, and address of the farmer. At what supermarket would you get this kind of service and helpful information? I’ll answer that one for everyone, not a single supermarket! They tend  to hide behind double meaning labels, concealing the truth about what exactly they are selling – ethical or unethical as it may be. Most consumers who have no alternate choice but to go to a supermarket for their food. Morals and ethics seem to have gone past the due date on that subject. Executives getting rich by giving others poorer quality meat. That’s another post. I’ve gotten side tracked.

I call up Steve Sickle, he is out running a couple errands but will be back at the farm later so we make an appointment to meet shortly after. He informs me that his meats are frozen. I am still undeterred, willing to try it, willing to forget that hiccup.

I come up to his farm, seeing his Simmental cattle at the front fence foraging. I turn right down his long driveway and pull up next to his massive stockpile of hay. I’m called over to his garage where Steve is fixing one of many machines with his daughter right next to him. I’m greeted with a smile and a handshake. We talk a bit about how I got his number and why I am there. I explain that I was looking for some locally raised beef (steaks) that I could grill tonight for dinner. He is more than happy to oblige and we head over to his house to pick up a couple Rib Steaks. Had the pleasure of meeting his mother, a shy woman but pleasant anyway. We talk about price, which ended up being $9 per pound, for a total of $17 (2 rib steaks close to 2 pounds total).

Outside Steve and I talk about his cattle, how he raises them, which abattoir (butcher) he brings his Simmental cows (which is just around the corner in Ayr), how  people come and ask him for freezer beef, selling them a third of his cow for $400-$500 to a single customer. Offering with the help from the butcher, any cut you ask for, how you want it, if you want your rolled backrib actually rolled and ties off for you, how thick you want your sirloin roast or top rump etc… An amount of beef that between myself and my mother would last a year. Though I would be cooking it for others too see what they think, hear their opinion on this meat. A thought I may have to exercise at a later date. Needless to say Steve answered all my questions as best he could, there were a few. His beef is hung for 3 weeks before being packaged and sent back to him and then off to farmers store (Brantwood Farms) for purchase to the public.

After a few thank yous on my part and I’m off to my car, on the way almost being wrestled to the ground by his very friendly dog, Aussie. Overly excited by what just happened, I look over at my packaged of (frozen) beef in the passenger seat and I’m off towards home to cook my meal.

Letting my rib steaks defrost and come up to room temperature, I setup my mise en place for the rest of my meal. On the menu I have sweet corn and a Spanish onion from Brantwoods Farm, chorizo sausage from Witteveen Meats, and a couple russet potatoes from Sobey’s. The end being only seasoned rib steaks with a grilled Spanish onion wedges (sweetly amazing, perfect companion for beef). The starch being a grilled chorizo, shallot, and garlic mash potato. For the corn, all I did was melt some butter and bast it on the grill. My personal favorite for corn on the cob. Epic.

In the end, it didn’t matter that much, that the meat was frozen, suppose because it was hung properly to begin with, though I’d love to take it longer than 3 weeks. The meat was moist, thanks in part to the fact it still had its bone on, the way it was raised, and handled. I was and am thoroughly impressed with Steve’s product. Can’t wait to continue talking with him and his butcher to further my knowledge about their craft and grow as a cook.

Simmentals:

The Simmental originated in Switzerland during the Middle Ages. Although developed as a triple purpose meat/draft/milk animal, they are now considered a dual purpose milk and meat producer. Simmentals range in colour from light tan to dark red with white markings on the head, behind the shoulders, belly, legs and flank. They can be horned or polled.

Simmentals are noted for their muscling, high growth rate and high milk production. Simmental cows usually wean heavy calves due to their high milk production and the breed’s high growth potential. First imports into North America were in 1967.

sited from http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/livestock/beef/facts/01-051.htm#simm

Clafouti Patisserie in Toronto

Although faced with tough competitors on it’s Queen West block, this little cafe beats out both Nadege and Dufflet (two of the biggies of the Toronto pastry world). The decor and store front are definitely not worth a double take, but they work perfectly well with the unpretentious desserts they serve. A tiny bench outside the store and three little tables inside are all the seats they can fit into their tiny place, but luckily Trinity Bellwoods Park is located right across the street and they have plenty of seats.

Regardless, the one item that keeps me coming back is their wonderful Clafouti (or fruit tarts). Showcasing flaky pastry, a velvety pastry cream and a diverse variety of fillings; these small pieces of heaven are definitely more than worth $3.50 (which is what they charge on average). My favourites so far have been the wild berry and cherry Clafouti but I can’t really make a generalization without several more trips to the store. From what I’ve heard, their croissants are rated among the top in the city but unfortunately they sell out before the afternoon so I’ve never been able to try (if anyone has, please let me know what you think). This cafe also features Balzac’s (a roastery in the Distillery district) coffee which makes for phenomenal latte accompaniment for your dessert. If you’re hungry for something savory, around lunch time they also make croissant sandwiches but unfortunately they’re served slightly refrigerated.

Overall, I’m very excited to finally get around to reviewing Clafouti since it’s been one of my favourite pastry shops in Toronto for quite some time. I recommend avoiding going there on Mondays (since they’re closed) and anytime in the evening since they have an ever changing morning and afternoon schedule.

Epic food scan 9: Wieners and Ford.

The assembly line.  A true invention of brilliance.  One person in a line of many, doing one thing over and over all day long.  Henry Ford introduced the world to mass produced efficiency.  Everything from clothes and tents to appliances and books were produced in record numbers by the vast faceless hoards of assembly line workers.

At the end of their mind numbing, single task days, workers would flock home to their mass produced subdivisions and sit down to a nice mass produced meal like wieners.  In a single desperate act of rebellion, millions of hair hard sprayed housewives rebelled by twisting and contorting the mundane, mechanical separated meat matter into true art.

Great beginnings…

I’ve always been passionate about food and I do feel like I’ve definitely enjoyed it more than those around me. It doesn’t only nourish me but it makes all problems better, cheers me up, calms me down, excites me, and if it was a person, it’d be my soul mate. It wasn’t until recently that I gave in to these thoughts and decided to take it to the next level. I’m soon coming up to my two year anniversary of being a part of the culinary industry and it’s been an amazing ride thus far.

I come from a very science oriented academic background, with a degree in Bio, Chem and Math (just for that added touch of nerd) and despite my achievements I never really felt satisfied. One miserable day when it seemed like the world couldn’t have been any worse, I baked a pie. It seems very silly for anyone who doesn’t share my passion, but that one single pie made all my problems go away. The moment I opened the oven and smelled the sweet aroma of the fruits bubbling away under the beautifully golden crust, I had my epiphany. I needed to cook! Shortly thereafter, I applied to culinary school and it led me where I am today.

I will admit, I had my doubts along this journey. At first, I doubted myself since I started school with others that had been an active part of the industry for many years and I really had no clue what I was doing. Then I doubted my passion, since I unfortunately worked in a kitchen where cooking didn’t matter. Everything came pre-packaged and frozen and my newly learned skills were not required when reheating something in the microwave (I did get really good at opening pesky packaging). Lastly, I really doubted my endurance since the long and strenuous hours came as a complete surprise to my inexperienced body. Regardless, I fought through all that and here I am today.

I’m done school and working in a bakery, making beautiful desserts all day long. I’m constantly learning and challenging myself into working efficiently and tidy (two very important qualities in the kitchen). But I think the most important realization is that someone is actually paying me to play with food. How awesome is that?!